The Know-How: Stuck Windows, an Intermittent Instrument Cluster, and a Stuck Slide-Out
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Battery Buddy System?
Q: I’m interested in adding lithium-ion batteries and an inverter to my 2023 Coachmen Freedom Express. I’d like to be able to use the outlets when not hooked to shore power—thus, the inverter. I’d like to install a 3,000-watt pure sine wave unit. I’m planning on 400-amp hours of battery power to run the inverter. I will not be using the setup to run the air conditioner, only a coffee maker, microwave, maybe the TV or DVD. I have calculated the draw, and I think I am well within the 3,000-watt parameters.
My question is: Why do so many setups use four 100-amp-hour batteries wired together rather than one 400-amp-hour battery? It seems like a lot of extra wires.
— Brian Kelly, Sparks, Nevada
A: Lithium-ion battery conversions are very big right now, as prices have come down and availability has gone up. Changing to Li-ion allows you to discharge down to 20 percent, as opposed to 50 percent with lead-acid batteries. (The general consensus is that discharging beyond that may damage the Li-ion battery. Good idea to recharge these batteries once they reach a state of charge [SoC] of 30 percent, to leave a small cushion.) Li-ion batteries also weigh considerably less and typically last a lot longer.
You can use a transfer switch to go from shore power to battery/inverter power in your outlets. Are you going to power more than one circuit of outlets? Because a 15-amp circuit only handles 1,800 watts (120 volts times 15 amps = 1,800 watts), you may not need a 3,000-watt inverter. If you don’t run the coffee maker and microwave simultaneously, you may be able to run a smaller, cheaper inverter, such as a 2,000 watt-unit.
Keep in mind that inverters draw power and run your batteries down even when they aren’t supplying power; larger ones consume more power. If you charge the batteries from your tow vehicle’s alternator (or a motorhome alternator), you need a DC-to-DC battery charger, which raises the voltage as needed for lithium-ion batteries but limits the current so the alternator isn’t overloaded.
Using one large battery does mean less wires and fewer connections to install and maintain. But two 200-amp or four 100-amp batteries may prove more useful for a larger inverter. If I had to make a choice, I would want at least two in my system. I prefer multiple batteries in parallel, which gives you redundancy and potentially a higher maximum discharge current to drive a high-wattage inverter.
There’s more to tell here—you can find an expanded version of this answer at rv.com. Check with the battery manufacturer to see how many batteries can be connected in parallel—some have restrictions. I think two batteries are a good number: lighter, easier to handle, and wiring not too complicated. You have some flexibility in mounting, along with redundancy.
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For Sale (Not Rent)
Q: I’m probably going to sell my gently used, low-mileage 2006 Fleetwood Terra LX 32K motorhome in the next few months. What things should or shouldn’t I spend money on before putting it on the market? I have a lot of extras. Does anybody care about that stuff that makes it easier and more fun to own and operate an RV? These include Centramatic Wheel Balancers, Garmin RV GPS, TST TPMS, ARP Fridge Defend, SiriusXM Satellite Radio, ViAir Compressor, etc.
— Larry Rice
A: You should make sure everything on the RV is in good working order. Then focus on appearance, with a thorough cleaning and detailing, inside and out. Typically, aftermarket accessories only add a modest amount to the selling value. However, it can make it easier to close the sale (and potentially get a bit more) once the prospective buyer comes to see the rig. (In my opinion, you are generally better off removing those accessories if doing so doesn’t harm the appearance of the RV. Then transfer them to your next RV or sell them on eBay or other online sites.)
Pricing your vehicle close to the going rate is a much more important factor. Good Sam and Kelly Blue Book both provide RV values, as does J.D. Power. But I’ve found that actual for-sale listings are better barometers of the market. RV Trader is a good source.
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Sliding Windows…Won’t
Q: I have trouble opening and closing windows in a late-model RV. What lubricant do you use to make the process of opening those slideopen windows?
— Lou Warren
A: Clean the window tracks to remove any dirt or grit before attempting to apply any lubricant. Use a silicone-based spray lubricant, as it doesn’t attract dust as much as oil-based lubricants do. Apply the lubricant to the window tracks carefully, making sure it does not come in contact with the window glass.
Intermittent Instruments
Q: I have a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder. The instrument cluster turns off and stays off for many miles. After going over a bump (size doesn’t matter), the cluster reenergizes for a while. Another bump: it’s off again. (The cluster appears to function a bit better when the headlights are on.) What gives?
—Ron Theede, Milliken, CO
A: Intermittent electrical problems are the worst! The fact that it appears to function better when the headlights are on tells me you likely have a poor ground connection and the power is backfeeding. Look for a loose, faulty ground connection at the back of the instrument cluster, where it connects to the wiring harness. If necessary, you can run a new, separate wire from a good ground near the panel to that connection point. Sometimes that’s easier than tracing the circuit in the dash—and you can never have too many grounds.
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Camp Juice
Q: We have a 2021 Keystone Avalanche 338GK fifth-wheel, equipped for 50-amp service. We’re considering a Harvest Hosts location for a one-night layover that offers one spot with 20-amp service. Can I use this? Would it harm my electrical system? And if not, could I at least use my refrigerator and some interior lighting?
— Steve Valentine
A: Yes, you can do this, with caveats. You will need an electrical cord plug adapter (you may need two separate ones, 50-to-30 and 30-to-20). A 20-amp service at 120 volts can handle up to 2,400 watts. It may be difficult to find a 20-amp plug—most are 15-amp, which reduces current handling capability.
So you need to stay under that current draw to avoid tripping the campground circuit breaker at the post. Therefore, air conditioners, coffee makers, large electric heaters, and so on are out. If you use a microwave oven or hair dryer you may have to turn most other items off.
With a 15-amp service, you only have a maximum of 1,800 watts available. A similar process is involved if you want to run a 50-amp RV on a 30-amp outlet using a reducer plug. You then need to limit power consumption to 3,600 watts.
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Wade in the Water
Q: We sometimes store our RV for an extended period and want to remove the water filter to prevent mold or mildew buildup. How do you store a water filter until the next time you use it?
— Kevin Steink
A: If it is an open-cartridge type that goes into an outer housing, I would let it dry out thoroughly in the sun and then store it in a sealed plastic bag to keep it clean. A fully enclosed and sealed filter is more of a challenge to dry out. You might try drying in the sun and heat, with both inlet and outlet open, then place it in a baggie and put it in the freezer. Most folks replace the filter each spring at a minimum.
Photo Credit: Getty
Stuck Slide-Out
Q: I own a 2019 Winnebago Outlook 31n motorhome. One slide-out motor is skipping, but I can’t gain access to it to figure out what I need to replace it. Any help?
— Tony Callese, Chicago, IL
A: Your coach has two slide-outs. Look underneath the one that still works when it’s extended to see the mechanism and identify the make and model. Check the owner’s packet too. (RV manufacturers use many equipment brands, even on the same coach, and sometimes change partway through a model year. I believe your coach uses two of the same Kwikee brand units.)
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