How Freediving Helps One Big Wave Surfer Sharpen Her Skills

How else do you deal with fear when surfing big waves?

I experience fear differently in surfing compared to freediving. I get much more nervous surfing. I often have trouble sleeping the night before.

Sticking to a strict routine helps: I collect my gear the night before, I don’t eat in the morning (I hate the thought of a wipeout on a full stomach), I do a light warm-up and stretches, and I avoid other people. But even with all that, my heart races before I hit the water because I never know what to expect.

Freediving is different. If your heart is racing, you won’t dive well. It’s more of an experience between you and yourself. You go when you feel ready. Surfing, on the other hand, has an adrenaline component. It’s wilder and louder. It requires a “just go for it” mentality, catching the waves as they come and pushing your limits.

That’s a challenge, because I’m not really an adrenaline junkie. I’m not doing crazy maneuvers on the big waves I catch. I simply love to let the waves do their thing and follow their energy. Sometimes, I also skip surfing, even when the waves are good. People say “when in doubt, paddle out”, but I do the opposite. If I have a bad intuition that day, I don’t test it.

Source: https://www.fieldmag.com/articles/lena-kemna-interview-surfing-freediving