DIY RV Generator Maintenance
We call it “RV generator maintenance,” but what it really boils down to is preventative maintenance. That simple two-word term is so important that it outweighs anything else. Lifespan, reliability, overall performance, safety, costs, and peace of mind all rely on your willingness to indulge in preventative maintenance measures.
Sure, we can change the oil, replace the filters, and run it regularly, but generators are just like everything else, meaning entropy begins its long, downhill process the moment you crank it up for the first time. Your job is to make it last as long as possible, whether that’s for the life of the RV or until you put it up on the marketplace.
By the way, this article applies to built-in RV generators (e.g., Onan models) and portable standalone generators (e.g., Honda, Champion), so no one is left out in the cold (pun intended). It may not be your most excitable RV-routine task, but it is easily one of the most important.
Understanding RV Generators
For RVers, there are (generally speaking) built-in generators and portable ones, but the latter is fairly diverse. These include gasoline, diesel, propane, inverter, solar, and dual-fuel types. There are big battery/fuel backups out there as well, but unless you’re hauling around a mansion, they aren’t included.
The built-in variety is a permanently installed power unit designed specifically for RVs. They are typically mounted in a dedicated compartment or undercarriage space. Built-in generators are convenience models, while portable generators are all about flexibility.
Built-In Generators
Compact, robust, and hardwired into the RV, built-in generators draw fuel directly from the RV’s gas, diesel, or propane tank. This eliminates the need to lug separate fuel cans around. They generally range from 2,500–12,500 watts of power output, depending on the size and capabilities of the rig. Common Onan models spit out roughly 4,000 watts, which is good for mid-size rigs.
Accessibility is sometimes a factor, making RV generator maintenance more difficult at times. There is a huge, often overlooked positive for built-in generators, however—noise reduction. Most hover between 50 and 65 decibels at full load. Built-in generators are designed in sound-dampening enclosures and include mufflers and vibration isolation.
“To fix the problem he says he’ll need to drop the generator out of the RV to get access to all the wiring and check for other damage, and I suspect the work won’t be fast or cheap.”
They are heavier (100–300 pounds), pricier ($3,000–$8,000), and less flexible than their portable counterparts.
Portable Generators
Portable generators are more difficult to nail down, mostly thanks to an extensive diversity of types, sizes, and uses. For the sake of simplicity, portable generators are compact, standalone power units designed to deliver electricity on the go.
They typically range from 1,000–10,000 watts, weigh 40–120 pounds, and are built for mobility, with wheels, handles, and leverage in mind. Quiet, inverter types hum at 50–60 decibels, while conventional ones are closer to 70–80 decibels.
RV generator maintenance on portable options is usually simpler than with their built-in cousins, but you have to also account for potential theft and fuel efficiency in non-inverter models. Parts are widely available too, as opposed to a more selective market for built-ins.
There are battery generators as well, but their output is generally lower (3,600 watts max/7,200-watt surge). Battery generators, powered with solar panels, are still a great option for small rigs and teardrops, and their maintenance needs are simpler.
Key Differences in Maintenance
Besides the fact that one is built into its own, cozy little nook, and the other necessitates good back posture to haul around camp, there are key differences to consider. One is tied into a motorhome’s fuel system, so its fate is tied to how well you maintain the engine compartment. Look at it on the bright side: it’s essentially a twofer.
Accessibility makes the built-ins more difficult to maintain, as well as the complexity of components. Portable generators are less expensive to maintain and easy to access, but environmental storage conditions are important, as are weather conditions, noise pollution, and fuel requirements.
It comes down to living convenience (quality of life, so to speak) versus maintenance convenience.
Tools and Supplies for DIY RV Generator Maintenance
RV generator maintenance is not always easy, as the above forum comment suggests. But it shouldn’t require a 500-pound tool chest. The right tools, rather than the most tools, are the best tools for maintaining a generator.
“Someone will come up with a nice tool list, but the possibilities are endless. I have known of people who travel with a welder and metal lathe.”
This is all about making sure you don’t have to call a professional out to your RV to drop the generator, spend an hour on it, and charge you enough that you’ll have to sell one of your kidneys on the black market. So, with that interesting picture out of the way, let’s start with the basics.
One of the best tools is not a tool at all, at least not in terms of a strict definition. Routine. Establish one and take the time to write down your basic maintenance necessities by week, month, and year. RV LIFE Maintenance (part of RV LIFE Pro, available on the Apple App Store or Google Play Store) is a great app for this, especially if you need something comprehensive and multi-faceted (the app includes much more than just maintenance routines and reminders).
Basic Toolkit
Your basic RV generator maintenance tool kit is the most extensive and includes exactly what most people think it will include. You’ll need a screwdriver set, wrenches, a good socket set, a multimeter, a few pairs of pliers (maybe some needle nose if access is tight), a few paintbrushes for cleanup, and some rags.
Generator-Specific Tools
This includes generator-specific tools and “your” generator-specific tools. Not all generators are created equal, and some require different components than others. For instance, you may want to stock up on oil, but oil may vary by model. Then you have oil filters, spark plugs, fuel stabilizers, air filters, etc.
If you can, stock up on some of these items, like spark plugs and air filters. If you’re ever out in the boonies, stores are closed, or you’re in the middle of a natural disaster or its aftermath, you’ll have the things you need to keep your generator running smoothly and true to form.
An oil filter wrench may be necessary in some circumstances, depending on your generator. This is pretty rare if you’re using a portable generator, but more common in built-ins. Universal straps or cap wrenches will fit most just fine.
Safety Gear
At 85 decibels and above, exposure equals hearing loss over time. Ear muffs are a good idea, especially if you also work in an industry where you are exposed to loud noises daily. Gloves and safety glasses are a good idea as well. Most people never think they need these things until a good diesel splash in the irises disabuse such notions.
Working in the shipbuilding industry for more than a decade now, I recognize the fact that even the most innocuous things I work near can grievously injure or kill me if I lower my guard and/or fail to wear my safety gear. You just never know, so why not cover all your bases, huh?
Check the Specs
Your generator, whether it’s built-in or portable, will have its own manual or section in the overall manual that you can refer to for valuable information, troubleshooting, and, if need be, warranty information. Before you begin maintenance, check over the manual before you get started.
If you can’t find the manual or if you chucked it with the original packaging, you can access just about any manual on the planet by doing an online search for your generator’s model.
Routine Maintenance Tasks
This is your basic stuff but don’t let the words “routine” and “basic” fool you. This stage of the RV generator maintenance info-article is the most important because it’s the preventative maintenance stage. The more focused and routine you are here, the fewer your headaches will be in the future.
Pre-Use Inspection (Both Types)
A solid once-over on your RV generator ensures it’s ready to fire up reliably, safely, and without any unexpected hiccups—whether you’re prepping for a boondocking adventure or a power outage.
- Check fuel/oil levels and quality.
- Look for leaks, oil and fuel, underneath or around the unit. Puddles or stains signal trouble.
- Check for loose connections or damaged cords, especially if you’ve had a recent problem with rodents.
- For built-ins, check for nests or signs of pest/rodent activity.
- Examine the exhaust system (built-ins especially).
- Be sure to clear out any dust or debris.
- For electric-start models, check the terminals for corrosion and test with a multimeter (12.6 volts is ready to go).
- Check the air filter to make sure it’s clean and tap out any dust.
This is mostly basic stuff. Anytime you break the generator out of storage or are firing it up after moving from one place to the next, you should go through this process. As for the potential nests, you’d be surprised how quickly a mouse can set up shop, so don’t discount such things just because it’s only been a few days.
Oil Changes
A generator is its own motor, and therefore it requires an oil change periodically. On average, generators require an oil change every 50–100 hours of use. Of course, that’s not set in stone, so it’s a good idea to break out that manual again if you don’t know or aren’t sure.
Portable generators are generally pretty simple in this regard. However, built-ins may require a bit of finagling, depending on the design. Some will even require you to get down beneath them. Undercarriage access is not the preferred method for most people, so it may be worth considering if you’re looking at an RV for purchase.
Air Filter Maintenance
Air filters always seem to get left out in the cold, whether it’s RV generator maintenance or anything else. It’s so easy to forget about. However, like oil, air filters generally need a change every 50–100 hours of use. You can get away with cleaning them out for a little while, but it’s often better to just change them altogether.
Some RVers change them annually and others go by the 10,000–12,000-mile rule, whether it’s the generator air filter or the engine.
Spark Plug Care and Fuel System Maintenance
You don’t have to change spark plugs like you do air filters and oil, but they do need a careful inspection every 100–200 hours of use, or per year—whichever comes first. Sometimes, especially with built-in models, the spark plug(s) aren’t easy to get to. If your built-in doesn’t tip down or slide out, you may have to get creative with extensions and/or wobbles.
“Depending on the model, especially the 4000, they tip down. Place a floor jack or a scissor jack from your car under the outer edge. There are two bolts that release the generator and let the outer edge drop down. It will give you access to the rear plug.”
Whether it’s a pain in the rear or not, the inspection/replacement process must go on. Without a functioning spark plug, you don’t have a working generator. Inspect the spark plug for signs of corrosion, fouling, or electrode erosion. If there are signs of any of the above, it’s time to make the change.
Fuel quality is critical for RV generators. Stale fuel or otherwise contaminated fuel is more than enough to clog the carburetor, gum up your fuel lines, or damage the engine. Gasoline, just sitting in the tank unused, will remain viable for 30–60 days before it begins a form of chemical degradation.
- Always use fresh fuel or stabilize stored gasoline.
- Use ethanol-free gasoline whenever possible (ethanol attracts moisture and kickstart .”phase separation” and corrosion.
- Circulate treated fuel for 5–10 minutes and fill the tank before storage.
- Run a stored generator once per month, for 20–30 minutes.
- Check and replace filters and lines accordingly.
- Use only clean, approved fuel containers, and keep the tank cap sealed when not in use.
Altitude and temperature have an impact on performance, so increase your inspections and generator maintenance procedures when in extreme or elevated conditions. You should always have a spare spark plug on hand, just in case.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
RV generator maintenance and troubleshooting issues are difficult to cover, mostly because there are so many tiny things that can go wrong. Fortunately, many of these issues are fairly common and worth mentioning here. Again, a healthy dose of preventative maintenance will avoid the vast majority of generator transgressions against their owners.
So, feel free to indulge, so you don’t end up having a very bad day out in the middle of nowhere or an extreme weather event.
Generator Won’t Start
Start with the basics. It may sound dumb, but checking the fuel level is the first task. We’re all forgetful, so there’s no reason anyone needs to know you’ve been trying to start your generator all morning with an empty fuel tank. Another silly thing that’s worth checking is the on/off switch if your generator is equipped with one. You can have a facepalm moment afterward. The rest are fairly general, so work your way through them one by one.
- Check the battery (for non-pull-start models) for proper voltage, clean wiring, and terminals.
- Check your oil level (some generators have a low-oil shutoff sensor.
- Make sure the fuel cutoff valve (only if applicable) is open.
- Check over the fuel pump.
- Check the fuel filter and lines.
- Check the carburetor (often near the air filter box in portables or behind a shroud/top cover in built-ins) by inspecting the fuel line from tank to carburetor, checking for external gunk, and smelly sludge.
- Check flow by removing the fuel line at the carburetor and turning on the fuel valve or cranking the starter.
- Pull the spark plug after failed cranking and check to see if it is wet (wet = flooded carburetor).
- If everything looks OK, blast the bowl, jets, and passages with aerosol carburetor cleaner, let it sit, then wipe or blow out the residue.
- If you remove the bowl, carburetor, or other parts, check the gaskets to see if they are degraded in any way.
- Check the spark plug by grounding the plug against the engine block, pulling the starter, and looking for a blue spark.
- Check the air filter for cleanliness.
- Ensure the choke is up if it’s a cold start and down if it’s a warm start.
- Check for error codes (built-ins) on the control panel and verify the RV’s 12-volt system isn’t tripped.
- Prime the carburetor with a small squirt of starting fluid or gas directly into the air intake (if it fires briefly and dies, there’s a fuel-delivery issue).
Low Power Output
Just because your generator is working, doesn’t mean you’re getting 110%. Generators have an expected voltage, wattage, or ability to handle loads. When you’re getting a low power output, it generally boils down to engine performance, electrical issues, or overload.
- Plug in a known, 100-watt device, like a bulb or multimeter-equipped gadget, and look for flickering or dimming.
- Use a multimeter to measure voltage and ensure it is correct.
- Listen for sounds of bogging down.
- If equipped, ensure “Eco-Mode” is off (portables).
- Check the governor (built-ins). RPM should increase under load.
- Check the fuel filter, lines (kinks or leaks), and carburetor jets (clean them if they’re gummed up) for optimal fuel flow.
- Never start a generator with stale fuel.
- Check alternator brushes, capacitor, voltage regulator, and wiring.
- For inverter units, look for warning lights indicating the inverter is failing.
- Run the generator unloaded, steadily increasing the load in known increments, until you’re past midway, looking for voltage drops, sporadic RPM, and the sound of the engine bogging.
Excessive Noise and/or Vibration
This is the simplest of the bunch because it usually boils down to loose components, the positioning of the generator, or the exhaust. Readjust the portable genset and see if the problem persists. For both built-ins and portables, carefully inspect throughout, looking for loose bolts, screws, etc.
“Depending on what surface you’re parked on, the noise from the 4000 can bounce off of the ground. Try throwing a piece of thick carpet or padding under it when running. This can absorb/deaden some of the noise.”
It’s like hair getting caught in a box fan, waking you up in the middle of the night. It’s usually harmless, but you have to find it before it drives you mad. In this case, the noise may drive your neighbors mad as well. Check your exhaust and try to keep your ear open to subtleties in the background, which will help you zero in on the exact location of the noise.
Seasonal and Long-Term Care
Seasonal and long-term care, in terms of RV generator maintenance, is just as important as all the little things you do to keep up with preventative maintenance.
- For pre-season prep, be sure to run the generator under load for 30 minutes, check all the systems thoroughly, and ensure the tank is full and the fuel stabilizer is in place.
- Use covers while in storage, and cover the exhaust for built-ins.
- Periodically check throughout the length of the storage, for dust, debris, or pests.
- Run the generator monthly, for 20–30 minutes to prevent carbon build-up.
You don’t have to jump through hoops to maintain your RV generator while it’s in storage, but you at least have to cover the above basics. No matter where you are, always make sure you work in ventilated areas, especially if you’re actively running it or dealing with the fuel.
Always disconnect power/fuel prior to repairs. For built-ins, watch out for hot components. Built-in units often require a college degree in Yoga, with an aptitude for stretching and flexibility. When you have to get in that close, getting burned is a distinct possibility.
Last but not least, always handle portables carefully, especially when transporting them to and from for storage purposes. They’re already fairly exposed, so external damage can easily turn into an internal problem. Cover everything well, cut off the lights, and come back once a month to crank it up for a run.
Conclusion
RV generator maintenance is a must for RVers. You don’t have to love it, but you do have to maintain it. Of course, this doesn’t cover every little thing that can possibly go wrong, but it does hit the basics. DIY skills will save you a ton of time and money. The more you can do on your own, the fewer times you will have to fork over $75+ per hour for someone else to do it.
Be sure to cover the key preventative maintenance steps, whether you’re storing the generator or you’re about to hit the road. You never know when a generator will become a must-have component of your RV—especially in adverse weather or natural disasters. Take good care of your RV generator, and it will return the favor a hundred fold.
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