Ask an RV Expert: Questions on Solar Charging, Dealing with Rats, and More

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Our RV expert answers some of your most pressing questions. Here are a few questions submitted by Wildsam readers.

Photo Credit: Getty

The Big Disconnect

Q: The last two times we had an RV shop do work on our 2024 Forest River Rockwood Geo Pro FBS 29 trailer, they returned the trailer to us with the battery switch in the OFF position. This made me think about long-term solar charging of our batteries. Our trailer has two 100-watt solar panels. In the cooler months, we don’t cover our trailer, which I think means the solar panels charge our batteries daily. When we don’t plan to use our trailer for at least a month, should I switch the batteries off? (Same question for warmer months, when we use a cloth trailer cover.) Also, when we plan to use the trailer within three weeks, I leave it connected to a 120-volt AC power source. Any issues?

—Robert Sigal, San Diego, CA

A: RVs have many “parasitic” electrical draws. If those are not offset by charging, they eventually discharge the battery(ies) in a few days or weeks. Solar panels, along with a good charge controller, can replenish that charge—if they are not covered up. I recommend that you determine if the solar-charging power is being fed to the battery before or after the shutoff switch. If the solar-charging output is connected directly to the battery, bypassing the shutoff switch, then it can charge even while the battery is disconnected from the rest of the RV. This is how it should be. (There should be an inline fuse to protect the wiring in case of a short.) When the trailer is covered, plug the coach into 120-volt AC power so the power converter can charge the battery bank. Alternatively, you could charge the battery with a maintenance charger.

Photo Credit: Zack Wittman

Rats vs. Wires

Q: I have a 2019 Jayco Redhawk with an Onan generator. Last year the generator would not run; it turned out that a rodent had gotten into the generator and damaged some wires. After an expensive repair, I left on a five-week cross-country trip. I used the generator once early in the trip and did not need it again until one of the last days. When I started it—nothing. Upon inspection, the compartment was packed with nesting material. All of my stops had been at commercial campgrounds or National Park campgrounds. What is the best way to prevent this?

—Robert Collins, Youngstown, NY

A: Rodent damage is a big problem nationwide! Sorry you had it happen twice. There are a number of solutions, some better than others. Some folks place trays of mothballs in the affected areas. However, generator engine heat may be a concern, and mothballs are only effective for a limited time. I suggest a product called Rid-a-Rat, or similar types of electronic deterrents. Some use self-contained batteries; others run off the RV’s 12-volt system. They don’t use a lot of power, but should not be left on for long periods without provision for maintenance charging the battery. Please let us know how it goes!

Photo Credit: Getty

Driving Us Nuts

Q: We have a 2023 travel trailer, and ran into an issue with wheel lugs. (I won’t mention the third-party manufacturer. It’s a high-end trailer.) When we picked up our camper from storage, one tire was almost flat. We travel with a compressor, so we put air in it, got to our campground and set up. Next morning, we went to remove the wheel. All was good until the chrome accessory cap on the lug turned, but the lug nut didn’t. The cap had come loose—this happened to three out of the five. I had to split the caps and peel them off. A rough lesson. As soon as we got home, we ordered 20 solid stainless lugs and changed them all. We recommend checking your lug nuts—a periodic check of the torque, in any case, to make sure the cap isn’t the only thing turning.

—Ken and Linda Nekos, Robinson Township, PA

A: Thanks for sharing this! Manufacturers often use these types of lug nuts because they are a little cheaper. I’ve had this happen. It can really ruin your day if it happens out on the road, especially in bad weather or a remote area. Sometimes I’ve had to hammer a slightly smaller socket onto the lug nut to get it to turn. I suggest that anyone who is concerned to check the lug nuts: See if they have thin chrome covers on them. If so, preemptively replace them, and tighten the new ones to the specified torque. After driving a while, pull off the road in a safe spot and re-tighten them, as lugs can loosen.

Photo Credit: Getty

Reverse Engineering

Q: I just bought a 2024 Ford F-250 pickup that has a backup camera. My previous pickup didn’t have one; my 1995 Scamp trailer doesn’t either. I want to take off the tailgate with the camera in it and install a V-type tailgate to accommodate the fifth-wheel camper. Will this stir up problems with the info center? Trigger alarms? Anything?

—Tim Demuth, Maple Hill, KS

A: If you remove the tailgate on this model without installing the special Ford wiring harness designed for this purpose, it will likely display a “Tailgate Ajar” warning on the dash, along with an error message. This harness is supposed to be included with the truck, and is typically found in the glove box or under the seat. However, some owners have reported that their rig is missing this gadget. You should be able to obtain a replacement from any Ford dealer parts department. It’s called “tailgate delete cap kit” (part number PC3T15A562, if we’re really getting deep into it).

There is also a simple manual workaround. The tailgate ajar sensors are switches within the tailgate latches. When those latches are fully closed, the system assumes the tailgate is latched, even if the tailgate is missing. So if you manually trip both latches, the warning will stay off unless or until you trigger the electrical tailgate unlatch function. You didn’t ask, but you might consider fabricating a bracket and installing the camera on the replacement tailgate.